Kawasaki ZX-14 Swingarm Extension Installation
Installing the swingarm extension kit on my 2009 Kawasaki ZX-14 was not that bad of a project. As in any bike or auto project, having the right tools, and patient is a key in the job turning out right.
I think the final results, turned out good. My next project is to install lowering links to bring the back-end down.
Difficulty Rating, 1 being easiest and 10 being hardest: Probably a 4
Tools needed:
- Front and Rear Stands (ebay)
- Motorcycle Lift (ebay) or an auto floor jack, like sears sales
- metric sockets, wrenches, allen sets, etc. 22mm socket for axel nut.
- axel grease
- mightyvac brake bleeder
- chain breaker
- chain riveting tool
- grinder or small air sanding tool (remove old chain)
Parts Needed: (you could buy the extension kit, which includes extensions, chain, brake line)
- new extensions
- new brake line
- new extended chain
- dot4 brake fluid
1. Lift and support bike with front and rear stands.
2. Remove brake line from rear brake caliper. Make sure you do not get fluid on bike. I taped up a clear sandwich bag around end to prevent spillage of fluid.
3. Remove brake caliper from brake hanger.
4. Loosen and remove rear axel nut with 22mm socket. Remove cotter pin.
5. Axel should slide out with ease. You should not have to beat axel to remove. Support Tire with 2x4 or something so that wheel just does not drop.
6. Slide brake hanger off while tire is being dropped and removed. Remove chain from around sprocket, and just let hang for now.
7. At this point the zx-14 rear tire is removed, rear brake line disconnected and hanging. Chain is also hanging.
8. Install new zx-14 swingarm extensions, tighten all the way, one side at a time. You should be able to distinguish the right side (brake) to the left side (chain). The right side should have a location for the brake hanger to adjust on.
9. After both sides are tight to manufacturing specifications, Place some axel greese on the axel and slide it through the new extension chain adjuster block. (you will need another person, or be able to support the tire so that you can align the axel as you slide it through. I used 2x4 and another piece under it, like a pivot point so I can lean on the high side and lift and tire into place)
10. The axel should slide with ease. Once The Axel and tire are in place slide the tire back, with the chain adjust blocks moving, leaving about ¾" - 1" for room to adjust the chain. You do not want the blocks up against rear of the extensions with no room to adjust. Tighten down the axel bolt a little to help maintain the position of the tire. (I just hand tighten it)
11. Once you have this position. Let's go ahead and cut the old chain, so that we can remove it.
12. I used a pneumatic mini sander kit to grind down the edge of the rivets on one link.
13. Once they were grinded down, I used the chain breaker tool to remove the rivets, and link.
14. Once the link is removed, I used the new master link to connect the top of the old chain to the new chain with the new master link (DO NOT PERMANTLY INSTALL THE MASTER LINK). I also used a very small zip tie to temporary keep the old chain and new chain connected, while I pulled the bottom of the old chain, so that the top chain was being pulled with the new chain around the front sprocket. Doing this saved me from having to remove more parts from the bike to install the chain around the front sprocket.
15. Once you have the new chain around, you can get rid of the old chain.
16. Now it's time to align the new chain around the rear tire, and making sure you still have about ¾" - 1" space from the adjust block and the rear of the extension.
17. Once you have a good measure and feel of where you need to cut the new chain. Remove the links not needed, and install the new master link permanently.
18. Using the brake adjuster blocks and bolts on the new extensions, adjust the rear tire to tighten the chain to manufacture specifications. You want to ensure both sides are equal in adjustment. Use the tick marks on the extensions as a guide, and also use a tape measure ensuring the same distance.
19. Once all this is done, spin the tire by hand and visually looking at the tire and spin to ensure alignment and no scrubbing.
20. Tighten down the rear axle bolt, and install a new cotter pin.
21. Remove the brake line completely.
22. Install the new brake line and bleed the brakes. I used MITYVAC VACUUM PUMP MV8000. It made the job easy.
Your Kawasaki ZX-14 has a new stance with it extended swingarm kit.
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